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Thursday, November 20, 2008

Back Home

Note: If this is your first visit to the blog, or you want to read if from the beginning, click on the "April" link to your right and start from there.


I suppose this will be the final post on the blog, if any of you who followed me are still keeping up with it. I've been home for over two months now, and have just about settled into the "real world" once again. I'm working a good bit, as a substitute for District 2, an after-school worker at Hendrix Elementary, and at the Spartan 16 movie theater. Hopefully I can save up enough to make the transition back to grad school next year a little easier.

I miss the trail terribly though, in ways I never thought I would. There is something liberating about waking up each morning and having a distinct goal for the end of the day. So much of the working grind feels like I'm just spinning my wheels, waiting for life to happen to me.

I also miss the opportunity just to enjoy silence. Everything is much too hectic and loud here... sometimes I get the desire to walk somewhere and take a few hours and ignore all the noise!

I think the biggest thing I've learned from the trail is how much people take life for granted... cliche, I know. But I certainly felt much different about myself and my "purpose" while hiking. Back home, there is a sense that a lot of people spend their lives simply accumulating debt and paying it off, a tragic cycle that never gets anyone anywhere. I hope I can take pride in my work and life once I finally get into the career I desire, knowing that I am making both myself and the world around me better.

Without a doubt, the AT was the best thing I've ever experienced. I saw and realized things in and about myself that I never would have, had I not challenged myself in this manner. I wish everyone would hike the trail... and that is not an exaggeration. If you have any desire to do this hike, I suggest you go ahead and do it before the banality of life catches up to you. We only get one time around, after all.

Until the next adventure...


-Smiles

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Mile 2174.0: Boiling Springs, SC

Hello everyone... I am back in my parent's house in Boiling Springs. It feels strange being home, yet I am amazed at how quickly I've adjusted to the day to day comforts of normal life. One of my trail buddies (who had already completed a thru hike) told me that it took a while before the AT experience "sunk in." I'm still waiting for that to happen... it is still hard to understand or put in to words what the past four months have meant to me. I have a feeling of being in limbo, of not knowing exactly what I should be doing with myself (although that will probably go away once I get a job... by the way, if anyone knows of a job, let me know!).

So obviously, I finished the trail, and that was a huge event... but an even bigger even took place while I was still on Mt. Katahdin: I asked my girlfriend of 6 years, Maggie, to marry me! I had no plans to do this before starting this trip... it was one of those "AT moments"-- a sense of epiphany that hit me while walking toward Erwin, TN... ~1,800 miles ago! I'm still trying to decide which will be a bigger adventure... walking the AT or marriage (I'm thinking marriage).


I got to hang out with some of my trail buddies for a few days last week before the family arrived. This is Jackaroo...

Blues Traveler and Professor Longjohns...

Me and Alf (a hilarious 67-year-old Austrailian, and now a thru-hiker)...
and Sight (back at the hostel).

Mom, Dad, Maggie, and Gramma arrived on Friday.

Saturday morning... we got an early start for one last hike.


It was surreal being at the tail end of an enormous distance.


Looking down the Hunt Trail.

Looking up.

There are no words to express the emotion I felt beside this simple sign.


I asked Maggie to marry me on the way back down... I'm not sure how I could ever top this day.


My family was waiting on me at the bottom.

This existential quotation is mounted on a boulder at the beginning of the trail to Katahdin... oddly enough, it sums up a lot of what the trail has taught me better than anything I can think of at the moment.

Man is born to die. His works are short lived.
Buildings crumble, monuments decay, wealth vanishes,
but Katahdin in all its glory forever shall remain...



I hope to update this site one last time in the next few weeks, once I have had a chance to process everything that has happened. Until then...

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Mile 2168.8: Millinocket, ME

I'm in Millinocket... the last, last, last trail town. Yesterday I completed an easy 10 mile stretch from Abol Bridge to the base of Katahdin, so that final summit (and an elevation gain of 4,200 ft.) is all that remains of this long trip.

Mom, Dad, Gramma, and Maggie fly in late tonight to Portland, so I won't actually see them until tomorrow morning. Then, Maggie and I are going to climb Katahdin on Saturday, so look for the final update sometime next week... from Spartanburg, SC!


It was hard to leave on all-you-can-eat taco night.

A wonderful welcome to the 100 Mile Wilderness.




There were many rivers to ford...

Like drinking a salad.



In the mist atop Whitecap Mountain.

Trail Magic in the wilderness thanks to Queen Diva and Ms. Smoke.

Fall is coming...




My first view of Katahdin!




Big Niagra falls... not the "real" Niagra falls.

One of my heroes on the trail. Blues Traveler started hiking the AT with no backpacking experience whatsoever... and now he's about to finish!

The Holy Land.

5 miles up.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Mile 2,059.5: Monson, ME

Sorry for the gap in updates... I was planning on updating a few days ago in Rangeley, ME, but the library was closed and I had no other way of getting online. At any rate, I'm in Maine! In fact, I am now in the last town before the infamous "100 Mile Wilderness," the final stretch of trail before Katahdin!

It is utterly unbelievable that I've made it this far. I already feel that my time on the trail has been too short... so much has happened to me in the past four months that I am certain I will have to do some serious self-reflecting once I return to process it all.

Probably the biggest change in my life is my sense of both time and distance. I started the trail in the middle of Spring... the rhodedendrum trees were just on the verge of blooming, and the nights were still chilly. Now, the leaves are beginning the change, the crispness of Fall is in the air, and I am utterly amazed at the way I've been able to witness the subtle changes from season to season as I have spent nearly 120 days and nights in the open woods.

Also, I truly appreciate the length of a mile. It is a long way! And a lot can happen in that seemingly short distance. For a long while it seemed as if each mile were insignificant compared to the total length of this trip, but now I look back at how far I have walked (over 2,000 miles now) and wonder how I've gotten this far. It has yet to sink in that I am actually near the end of this mythical quest. (I've also learned that the car-driving townies are terribly inaccurate when it comes to judging distance... "a half mile" can be anywhere from 500 feet to 3 miles!)

Now for some bad news... it seems as if my camera is close to death. I discovered in Rangeley that it had not taken any new pictures for about 100 miles (my LCD screen died back in Vermont, so I haven't been able to see what I've taken for some time now)... and after some fidgetry I was able to get one or two shots for every 5 I take. So hopefully it will stay faithful to me for this last little bit.

By the way, I forgot to mention last time that I had a very close encounter with a bear while I was still in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I was sleeping in the open and heard a loud crash around 5:00 AM. I looked up and saw a huge figure about 10 feet away from me in the dark. "That's a big dog," I thought at first, but then the thing turned to the left and I saw it probably weighed closed to 200 lbs. There wasn't much that I could do except sort of sit up and clap my hands... I think he just wanted to check me out before going on his way. My dad and I saw him again a few days later digging through some trash at one of the New Hampshire lodges.



First moose!


A nice campsite.


Sugarloaf ski area... the trail goes right near the top.


The weather has been nearly perfect since my first day in NH.

Near the top of Saddleback Mountain.

"The Horns"

Bigelow Mountain

Looking South.



Maine has so many lakes... and mosquitos.



Katahdin is out there... somewhere.


One last thing... I was able to watch the opening game for South Carolina last Thursday in a pizza place in Bethel, ME. As you can imagine, there weren't many Gamecock fans this far north, but I still had a great time by myself. It was nice seeing Columbia and Williams-Brice again... it was even nicer watching Clemson get trounced by Alabama a few days later! "Hold that tiger..."

Monday, August 25, 2008

Mile 1876.1: Gorham, NH

Hello all... I have a ton of pictures and even a video(!) to upload, so I'll let them do most of the talking. New Hampshire and the White Mountains have been my favorite part of the trail so far... just stunningly beautiful. After slogging through the rain and mud in Vermont, the weather has been perfect all through the Whites.

You can see (and hear) how happy I was to be on the trail in this short video from the top of Mt. Moosilauke:



And now for the pictures... starting with the rest of Vermont.

If only it were running...
The AT from the firetower on Bromley Mountain ski area.



Vermud.

Like I said... this privy is where I hid for about an hour while it stormed. At least it was dry!


It rained every day in Vermont.


Another one down!


Dartmouth College.


I miss the winter... skis would have made going downhill much easier!



A friendly warning.

Part of the trail followed a waterfall.

Near the top, in the clouds.
The first of the White Mountains: Mt. Moosilauke.

It was windy!

Hot Tang and Longshot.

On the ridge; Carter Notch in background.

A fellow Boston fan.

The Franconia Ridge.

On top of Mt. Lincoln (Mt. Washington in the background).

Almost there...

Lake of the Clouds hut.

Three ways to get up Washington... hike, ride in a car, or take the train!

Mt. Washington has its own weather station and holds the record for highest recorded wind speed on Earth at 231 mph. There was very little wind on this day, however.


Lots of tourists at the top of Washington... who did not climb up on foot (their cars did).
Mt. Jefferson


Neon, Kyle, and Wookie.

Working my way over a boulderfield in the morning.

Next stop: Maine (after dad and I get some lunch).

Friday, August 15, 2008

Mile 1732.1: Hanover, NH

Hello from Hanover, home of Dartmouth college. I've noticed a distinct change in the trail towns as I progress from the South to the North: in the South, both the buildings and the people reflect the traditional "Appalachian Mountain People" heritage... which was both entertaining and familiar (as a Southerner myself), if you get my drift. However, as the Confederate flags and NASCAR stickers disappeared over the ensuing weeks, it seems as if every town I've been to north of the Mason-Dixon line has gone out of their way to ensure that every inch of their municipality maintains a postcard-quality aesthetic. Hanover is perhaps the epitome of the phenomenon: lush parks and open areas are interrupted only by a tidy street of church steeples, bookstores, and local shops. In addition, there is a sense that every corner holds some chestnut of history... heck, Dartmouth itself is older than our country!

As for the trail... well, lets just say I'm looking forward to New Hampshire. I endured two huge storms systems during my time in Vermont... and managed to get soaked by rain or hail at least once per day. These setbacks only deepened my desire to return at some point in the future (hopefully in the fall, when it isn't a record-level rainy season) and hike the Long Trail, the first official American long-distance trail (which spans the length of Vermont from Massachusetts to Canada).

To add insult to soggy injury, I managed to lose my USB camera cable, so I am unable to upload pictures at this time. Hopefully I'll be able to get a new one soon, so you can see how much of a mudfest the trail was for yourself. A sneak preview: my favorite picture from this series is a self-portrait inside a 3'x3' outhouse... where I waited out the rain for about an hour (I wasn't actually using the outhouse at the time)!

Friday, August 8, 2008

Mile 1637.0: Manchester Center, VT

A quick one while I'm waiting on Maggie's family to pick me up for my birthday! Vermont is beautiful; you can really tell we're getting back into the "real" mountains again!


An odd sight on the AT in Massachusetts.


Storm clouds over Mt. Greylock.

These pictures were taken less than 15 minutes apart... I had to cower in the corner of a bathroom while a huge storm went by!


The early morning clouds looked like an ocean.

The Vermont state line!!!


First it was "Rocksylvania"... now I'm in "Vermud."


The camera got a little wonky after a rainstorm... but this was a really nice sunset.

At the awesome Green Mountain House hostel in Manchester Center.

Some long lost friends... I first met Geisel and T.T. in Erwin, TN... some 1,300+ miles ago! It was nice to reunite.


Tomorrow I'll be 23 years old... and I could not imagine a better place to celebrate than on the AT while living out my dream. Every day is a gift.

Monday, August 4, 2008

Mile 1565.3: Cheshire, MA

Just as I expected, the last few days have flown by thanks to the smaller states in the Mid-Atlantic region. The trail in New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts has been a little on the mediocre side, but at least it hasn't been so difficult (except for the rocks!).

Right now I'm sitting at the base of Mt. Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts and the first mountain (I think) above 3,000 feet since Virginia! The sun is shining and the temperature isn't so hot (definitely not around the 100 degree mark like you guys in South Carolina), so I better get going before it gets too late in the afternoon. But first, a quick story:

I developed a new trail term by accident in New York... "steel blazing." I was walking along a ridge that was pretty easy going, listening to my radio and generally enjoying the afternoon. I wasn't paying much attention to my guidebook or map, so when I reached a road around 6:00 PM, I thought it was the one that led into Pawling, NY... my destination for the evening. I stuck my thumb out and was quickly picked up by a nice guy named Juan from the Dominican Republic. I asked if he could take me about 3 miles down the road into Pawling. He said sure, but he wasn't too familar with the area, so I would have to tell him when to stop. I hopped in and we started talking.

He had come to the U.S. to play baseball, and until recently was on a minor league team that fed the Phillies. However, after he broke his arm, he had to quit, so now he worked in the landscaping business. Anyway, I was so enthralled with his story, that I realized we had been driving for about 15 minutes and hadn't seen any signs for Pawling. I asked him to drop me off in the next town, which happened to be Carmel, NY... which wasn't even on my map! Thankfully, the library there was still open. After using Google Maps to figure out where I was, I saw that I was 4 miles West and 20 miles South of where I needed to be! There was no way I could walk there, even on the road, and it was getting too late to hitch (and I didn't even know which road to go to anyway). However, I noticed that Pawling had a train station, which is part of NY's extensive rail system that includes the subways in the city and the four rail "arms" that reach out into the rest of the state. By following the railway south, I saw that I could hop on a train in Brewster, NY and take it into Pawling. The downside was that it was four miles away, and I had an hour and 15 minutes before the last train left for the evening. I started walking as fast as I could in the dark on a busy road... but somehow made it with 10 minutes to spare! I bought a ticket for a measley $2.50 and "steel blazed" all the way home for the night.

The moral of the story? Thank goodness for the public library system and NY's public rail system! Who says government supported programs aren't effective?

By the way, I updated the map to the right (I had forgotten to do it since Pennsylvania) so it now reflects my current position.

See you this weekend! I'll be celebrating my birthday on the trail!


There were tons of lakes throughout New York.
Yep... one section of the trail was called "Agony Grind." It was as hard as it sounded.
In Bear Mountain Inn, home of the only merry-go-round (the circular building) on the AT.

A cool fire pit at Bear Mountain Inn.

The wonders of humanity.

Crossing the Hudson River on the Bear Mountain Bridge.



Some things you can only see on foot... a telephone on the bridge with a direct connection to a suicide prevention hotline.


Ruins of an old farm wall.
"Steel Blazing"


I love the town motto: "Home of Positive Thinking"
Four days of food.

Some awesome whale-tail sculpture near Cornwall Bridge, CT.

The library in Salisbury, CT

Kittens for sale! It was hard not to get one...


Waiting out the rain in Great Barrington, MA.
Laundry day with Freewil and Micro.
Icecream at Tom Levardi's, an awesome guy who let hikers stay at his house for free.
Slack-packing.
Beard check.






Sunday, July 27, 2008

Mile 1343.5: Vernon, NJ

This update will be a bit shorter than usual... I've just updated the site about a week ago, and it has been raining a lot lately, so I haven't been able to take a ton of pictures. I'm about to finish up with New Jersey, and then I'll only have six states left before the finish!

My family just came up for the weekend as an early birthday visit (mine is on August 9th), so I've just spent a couple of days relaxing and eating and sleeping in a real bed. They helped me switch out my boots, which had made it all the way to Pennsylvania before I blew out leather upper on the left foot. Fortunately, I was able to replace them for free as they were under warranty.

Many people ask how I am able to update this site while on the trail. As a future librarian (I plan on getting a Master's degree in Library Science next year), I would like to take this opportunity to say "thank you" to our public library system. Every library on the trail has been incredibly helpful and willing to let me use their computers, read magazines, or just hang out. I've even been able to purchase a couple of books for cheap... which is the epitome of on-trail entertainment. Go support your local library today!

Thanks also to the Fortner family... who have "sponsored" this trip by buying my mountain bike. Just don't think I'm going to wear "Team Fortner" hiking socks.


Crossing the Delaware River, just like George Washington.

New Jersey was actually incredibly beautiful... until it started raining.

Took this one a little crooked.

Pretty much what the last half of Jersey looked like.




However, I did manage to score an awesome place to sleep... some super-nice RV dealership owners let me set up inside of an unsold motor home. I was living in style while it poured outside. Thanks guys!

See ya in New York... I hope my Sox hat doesn't get me killed.

Monday, July 21, 2008

Mile 1242.9: Slatington, PA

I've only got 30 more miles of Pennsylvania (also known as Rocksylvania) and then I'm into New Jersey. The heat is really starting to become an issue, as well as water, so I've tried to start hiking earlier in the day and take a long break during the hottest hours. Luckily, I've been able to either take a shower or jump in a river at the end of each day and wash the salt off at the end of each day.

Pennsylvania has been a milestone state. Not only have I passed the 1,000 mile mark, the half-way point, and have had my longest day, but I've also just passed the "1,000 miles left mark." It is an overwhelming feeling have gone this far already: I can still clearly remember standing at the "2,000 miles left" point back in the Smoky Mountains, unable to comprehend the longevity of the journey ahead. Now, though the end is still a long way away, I am becomming more and more confident in my chances of success as I have less to go than what I've already done.



Leaving Duncannon, PA
A large Timber Rattler.

Trail magic!



Getting excited for pizza.



On top of the Pinnacle, the "best view in Pennsylvania."
An unexpected hiker feed... awesome!

Outside of Slatington.